Ama Dablam Expedition - 30 Days

Ama Dablam’s main peak (6,812m/ 22,349ft) is often referred to as the Matterhorn of the Himalayas due to its regular pyramid shape. Ama Dablam is in the eastern Himalayan Range 152 km northeast of Kathmandu.  There is also a lower western peak (6,170/20,243 ft). The climb to the peak is generally via the southwest ridge with three camps established along the ridge, and camp three positioned below the hanging glacier (the Dablam). Its unique shape makes it attractive to climbing enthusiasts, with April to May and September to October being the best times to scale this amazing peak. A Dablam in Tibetan means necklace, the same as the sacred symbol worn by Sherpa women. Ama means mother, hence the name of this peak means “Mother’s Necklace”.

This is a physically and technically challenging climb due to the shear faces and steep sections of ice and rock to navigate. Climbers must also be accustomed to climbing at high altitudes. There are of course higher mountains to climb, but Ama Dablam offers a bigger challenge and will test your technical skills. Your exposure on the steep faces means there is nowhere to shelter, therefore the weather conditions must be perfect before attempting a climb to the summit. Sherpa Expedition & Trekking will ensure that risks are kept to a minimum and will have accurate weather forecasts on hand.

Mt. Ama Dablam lies in the Khumbu region of Nepal to the south of Mt. Everest and Mt.Lhotse.  Everest (8,848 m/29,030) and Lhotse (8,516m/27,940 ft) are the 1st and 4th highest peaks in the world. During your ascent you can be certain of some truly spectacular views of these giants and from the summit even better views. Ama Dablam soars above the well known Tyangboche Monastery, a must see prior to the challenge ahead. A visit to the monastery is an excellent opportunity to do “puja” – meaning prayer in Nepali before climbing to the summit. You will observe that your Sherpa guides will always do this before a climb.

The most popular route for climbing Ama Dablam is the southwest ridge. The climb is normally done with three camps set up along the ridge. Camp 3 is generally established just below and to the right of the hanging glacier- the Dablam. A part of the ascent will be across the Dablam glacier.

The greatest difficulty of climbing these peaks can be altitude sickness, that's why we spend time along the trail leading to Base Camp, and from Base Camp, to frequently climb and ascend to avoid any complications.

Your journey begins at Kathmandu and from there a short flight to Lukla (2840m) and then a trek through the following villages: Phakding (2610m) and Namche Bazaar (3440m) where we will spend the day to acclimatize before heading to higher altitudes. We will follow the trail to Tyangboche (3860m) and then to the start of our climbing expedition at Ama Dablam Base Camp (4600m). We will spend time here to preparing for our climb before making our way up to several higher camps – all the while improving our stamina and lessening the likelihood of altitude sickness. We have allowed a climbing period of 15 days to climb to the summit of Ama Dablam (6,812m). It may be necessary to delay the ascent due to less than perfect weather conditions. The rest of the days will be spent practicing your climbing skills to make certain you have a safe and successful climb.

After successfully climbing to the summit we will return to Namche Bazaar (3441m) and then back to Lukla where we will take a scenic flight back to Kathmandu where we can boast of our success and add another mountain to our climbing journal.

Sherpa Expedition and Trekking takes care of everything, from permits, fees and all accommodation along the trail. Your safety and enjoyment are always our priority. After more than 40 years (est.1977) in the trekking and climbing business we understand the difference between a merely good experience and a great experience. Our reputation speaks for itself.